Navigating the world of classic car shopping is as intimidating as it is exciting. On one hand, you're fulfilling a dream, but on the other, you're delving into the unknown complexities of vintage vehicles. With countless factors to consider and potential pitfalls to avoid, our expert tips will help you build a solid foundation and confidently start the hunt for your dream car.
Know Your Target
Approaching classic car shopping with a broad mindset and loose, “old car” definition invites problems. The more specific you are with your selection, the easier it will be to spot issues or red flags that should ward you away from certain listings.
The best thing to do is sit down and decide what model of car you really want. While budget will (likely) have a major impact on your choice, consider other factors too like desirability, visual statement, rarity, and performance. Once you have a model in mind, start studying it.
Go to car shows and see what examples of it look like in person. Get a feel for how things should appear based on the vehicle's age. Learn what parts are factory, and what's aftermarket or some type of modification.
Prior research on good samples within your budget is essential before you go diving into classified listings – otherwise, sellers can easily take advantage of you. On top of that, knowledge of what’s acceptable within a given price range empowers you when the time comes for negotiations.
What you don't want to do is learn from auction-level restorations. Unless you have big money to spend, your standards shouldn't be as high as what's present there. Additionally, it’s not unusual to see high-end paint jobs and decorative work on suspiciously low-priced vehicles being used to mask major underlying issues.
Clones are OK As Long As…
Clones are often viewed as a red flag, largely because of flippers. Flippers will often take a base model vehicle, decorate it to look like a special trim – often do a poor job at it – and then inflate the selling price. This practice is deceptive, but it doesn't mean all clones are bad.
Clones can be great for two reasons. On the first count, older cars are inherently rare due to the simple passage of time, which means any specialty models you might be after – such as Roadrunner, Judge, or Grand National – are going to be higher in price. Secondly, springing for a genuine rare model may restrict your enjoyment, since you may feel obligated to treat it with special care.
That said, don’t settle for a badge and some stickers as justification for an unnaturally high price tag. A clone should only be considered when the price matches the job done, and that price should never be the same as that of a true model in a similar condition.
Spotting clones really rests on the shoulders of our first tip: Know your desired model. Understanding what options were and weren't present, what proper badging looks like, and other model-specific details is crucial, as this knowledge will determine what you need to keep an eye out for.
Things You Don’t Want to See
Classic car shopping is a specialized process and really hinges on the model you’re after and what your standards are. For example, you might be looking for a classic Pontiac but don't really care about the finer details, like having aftermarket aluminum heads in place of the original iron, so long as most of it is in decent enough shape.
That said, there are some general things you need to watch for when classic car shopping. While you juggle your standards and model-specific details, some simple issues might fly under your radar that can be indicative of issues hidden in plain sight.
Bad Wiring. Classic cars with original wiring can be littered with problems. Multiple splices and signs of corrosion on the wiring at connectors may be a sign that some major work is needed.
Hacked Plumbing. Fuel and brake lines must be replaced over time due to normal wear and tear. Poor workmanship can result in poor performance and serious safety risks.
Shoddy Body Filler. While body filler isn't inherently bad, it warrants caution. Wavy panels can indicate undisclosed major repairs, and cracked or peeling body filler is generally present when the work isn't done right.
Improper Engine Dress. Chrome and engine dress-up aren't necessarily red flags, but they can potentially mask underlying issues. If you see chrome, don't let its shininess keep you from inspecting everything around it to ensure it's all in order. If something isn’t the way it should be or has been modified, you should ask the seller about it and factor it into the price.
Engine Warm on Arrival. A warm engine on arrival may be the seller's way of having everything ready for you. It may also be their way of hiding an issue. Some mechanical problems only make themselves known when an engine is cold, and you want to hear an engine run through all normal temperature ranges to get a good read on its health.
What to Look at Under a Vehicle
Predatory sellers will often have the upper half of a vehicle in good shape to capitalize on cosmetic appeal. But if you really want to get a feel for a vehicle's health, you need to jump beneath it and take a look at the following:
General Condition. Assess the vehicle’s overall condition by scanning for surface rust, noting the presence of factory undercoating, and taking stock of the overall cleanliness of the undercarriage. These factors provide some insight into the vehicle’s maintenance and upkeep.
Structural Components. The frame or subframe is a good indicator of a vehicle's true health and history. These are hard-to-replace components and will often be patched or repaired rather than replaced. If a vehicle's been in an accident, you may also find pull marks on designated locations. Any signs of damage or repairs are worth bringing up to the seller, especially if wavy body work is also present.
Plumbing and Wiring. Your inspection of plumbing and wiring must extend beneath the vehicle. More often than not, poorly made repairs are hidden here.
Steering Components. Old steering systems are nowhere near as good as today's designs, so you really want to ensure what is present is in good shape. Any signs of worn ball joints, control arms, and anything else within the system should be taken into consideration when negotiating the price.
Leaks and Damaged Oil Pans. Old cars just leak, right? Yes and no. You need to know where small leaks normally come from and when they may indicate bigger issues like a busted oil pan or a blown seal. Otherwise, you may wind up with a major repair on your hands that wasn't factored into the selling price.
How to Pick a Car for Modifying
Not all classic car shopping is in pursuit of a turn-key vehicle; some people are looking for a ride they can modify or build to their heart’s content. In that case, much of the advice above doesn’t really apply.
So, how does a gearhead go about picking the right model for their demands?
Determine a Platform Based on Aftermarket Support.
The best vehicle for your purposes depends on how you want to use the vehicle and how heavily you intend to modify it. If you're trying to use mostly stock parts – just replacing key components for better performance – then you want to pick something with vast aftermarket support. It's also good to read into how affordable said mods are. For example, Dodges and Fords have great aftermarket support but aren't as cheap to build as Chevrolets.
Know the Cost of a Project.
Since you're seeking a vehicle to build on your own, you'll want to know what a desired car goes for in “project” condition, as well as a fully-functional model. This comparison will help you gauge a fair price for a vehicle in disrepair. It’s also useful to determine what a fair price is for a shell or run-down project based on the severity of its condition. Surprisingly to many, even rotted shells of certain models bring in a small fortune, so knowing a fair price is critical to starting your project on the right note.
Bonus Tip: If all you need is a skeleton to build a clone, then you can settle for a shell from a similar but more affordable model since you can easily replace the necessary sheet metal to start building the model you really want.
Land a Project Partway Through.
Many builders abandon projects halfway through when they realize repairs or mods are taking more time and money than they originally anticipated. That spells opportunity for you, as it allows you to score something close to your vision for pennies on the dollar. Even if the project deviates from the combination of parts you want, it can help streamline the process – and you can sell or trade parts you don't want for those that you do.